Last week, we attended London Fashion Week to view AW23/24 presentations for TOGA Archives and Tata Naka. With over 50 runway shows and presentations spanning five days, the city was ignited with creative energy. London Fashion Week is celebrated for showcasing a mix of fresh designers as well as its established names, like Burberry, Richard Quinn and Christopher Kane. Below, we give you a breakdown of the presentations attended by the BDA London team.
TOGA Archives
Designed by Yasuko Furuta and established in Tokyo, TOGA Archives took the opportunity to showcase its new AW23/24 collection at London Fashion Week 2023. TOGA stands for an ancient Roman garment made of a single piece of fabric and worn over a tunic, and the label explores the idea of breaking free from constraints while bringing us out of our shells and making us feel safe and comfortable.
TOGA Archives AW23/24 Presentation Preview:
Yasuko Furuta’s presentation titled 'REVEAL, EVOKE, LIBERATION' evoked a feeling of comfort matched with functionality. These contradictions were featured throughout the display, as rigid belts and utility straps contrasted faux fur trims and extreme padding and puffing. Even everyday items were exaggerated, with tote bags made intentionally to be as comfortable as possible.
The collection spotlighted the things that are conventionally hidden as part of the concept of inviting the body outside to encourage us out of our shells. Shirting was manipulated to help reveal what is inside and jackets were tailored to open widely at the chest. Meanwhile, details like the conventionally concealed magazine pocket were made deliberately visible to resonate with this concept.
Tata Naka
Tata Naka, a luxury fashion label founded by twins Tamara and Natasha Surguladze, was a must-see presentation of London Fashion Week AW23/24. The sisters were born in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, formerly part of the Soviet Union, before moving to London, where they graduated from Central St Martins. Their brand name was born in memory of their childhood nicknames.
From its signature prints to vibrant colours, the brand showcased a collection taking inspiration from the shared experience of ballet rehearsals. To bring the presentation to life, Tata Naka worked with Elena Glurjidze, the former lead principal ballerina of the English National Ballet and her ballet school, Masters of Ballet Academy, staging a ballet rehearsal for guests to experience.
Tata Naka AW23/24 Presentation Preview:
“For AW23-24 Tata Naka takes inspiration from the world of ballet rehearsals, looking beyond the magic one sees on stage, eschewing the elaborate costumes and flawless performances of the dancers on stage for the behind-the-scenes style at the rehearsals themselves.”
Highlights included a series of classical studio dancewear, like leotards, floaty chiffon skirts, leg warmers and warm-up pants, mixed with off-duty looks, including cosy knits, tweed blazers and oversized coats. The colour palette featured soft pastels associated with dancewear, spanning lavender, salmon, pink, jade, yellow and turquoise hues. Prints and patterns were inspired by the vintage-style florals often seen on leotard designs. A range of jumpers also showcases Naka’s interpretation of the Giselle, Romeo and Juliet and The Swan ballet posters.
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