As another fashion week season draws to a close, the Trendhub team have collated their key call-outs from the New York, London, Milan and Paris shows. Established and emerging designers showcased their latest collections ahead of the upcoming AW23/24 season, as always indicating what we can expect to see trickle down into the ready-to-wear market.
At Coach, we saw an abundance of leather, distressed denim, motorcycle jackets and long skirts made from repurposed garments and scraps, making each one-of-a-kind. On the Tory Burch runway, the collection was grown-up and polished, aiming to challenge the perception of beauty and femininity.
Our Key Fabric Call-outs:
LAYERED LACE: On the New York catwalks we saw head-to-toe lace looks emerge, layered with a solid base.
SHEER: Delicate sheer fabrics remain key for the AW23/24 season, ranging in opacity. These fabrics are key across dresses and evening jumpsuits, where silhouettes feature wrapped and gathered fabric details
ALL OVER SEQUINS: Head-to-toe sequin fabrics were shown across luxe co-ords and midi dresses in bold statement tones and neutrals. Draped, pleated and ruched details further highlight the fabric.
London Fashion Week is known for being at the epicentre of all things creative. AW23/24 did not disappoint.
Highlights included Daniel Lee's Burberry debut. The Creative Director's first collection for the British fashion house featured a vibrant colour palette and daring silhouettes, a pleasant shift from Burberry’s classic muted beige tones.
At the party of all parties to close LFW, Moncler Genius put on a spectacle with a first-of-its-kind immersive co-creation show that saw collaborations from the likes of Alicia Keys, Rick Owens, Pharrell Williams, Mercedes-Benz, and Adidas Originals. Read more about the LFW AW23 presentations attended by the BDA team here.
Our Key Colour Call-outs:
BOLD YELLOWS: A key colour family for statement dressing, ranging from sharper tones to slightly muted shades, seen styled tonally or partnered with blues and deep reds.
AUDACIOUS REDS: Vivid tonal variations of red were paired tonally, or contrasted by shades of pink.
CALMER BLUES: Tonally layered and blocked, a muted palette of refined soft blues created an effortless look and feel.
In Milan, designers presented a more understated take on the season's trends. From menswear-influenced tailoring at Fendi to Dolce and Gabbana’s lingerie dressing, the showstoppers of the week included a mix of classic Italian style and intricate details. A Trendhub highlight included the highly Instagrammed, sex-positive set from Diesel.
Our Key Print and Pattern Call-outs:
TARTAN: On the Milan catwalks we observed traditional blue and red tartans, which were key across tailoring. These classic patterns were paired with satin or velvet collar details as well as sequin-embellishments.
ZEBRA: Presented across evening and outerwear looks, classic black and white zebra prints were showcased in mid to large-scales across satins, wools and sheers.
PINSTRIPES: This perennial tailoring classic was key for jackets and trousers, worked across tailored wools, velvets and cotton fabrics. In some instances, pinstripes were embellished for an appropriately glam update.
As usual, Paris brought the key global fashion weeks to a close, playing host to some of the most memorable shows of the season.
Attempting to top the internet-breaking "spray-on" dress showcased on Bella Hadid last season, Coperni turned to technology once again for their catwalk presentation. This time, robot dogs accessorised models, completing their looks.
Meanwhile, Saint Laurent returned to elegance, evoking memories of classic YSL catwalks, with a show centred around monochrome precision and extreme power shoulders.
Our Key Silhouette Call-outs:
ONE SHOULDER: At Paris fashion week, tops and dresses with body-hugging silhouettes featured asymmetric shoulder details with twisted and gathered fabric manipulations.
FEATHERS: Feather trims were worked onto skirts and trousers, adding a playful aspect to minimally constructed clothing.
RE-WORKED: Tailored jackets, skirts and trousers were re-constructed, featuring asymmetric shoulder details and additional elements such as belt loops and buttons.
ALL REPORTS AVAILABLE FOR THE AW23/24 SEASON:
*London Womenswear, London Menswear, Milan Womenswear, Paris Womenswear, New York Womenswear*
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